Trousers-pattern with hem and cuff extension.



F. T. HARRINGTON.

TROUSERS PATTERN WITH HEM AND CUFF EXTENSION.

APPLICATION FILED 00T.17, 1911.

1,064,072, Patented June 10, 1913.

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COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPII CO.,WASHIN(ITON, I). cv

FRANK T. HARRINGTON, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

TROUSERS-PATTERN WITH I-IEM AND CUFF EXTENSION.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Qatentcr'l June 1th, 1913.

Application filed October 17', 1911. Serial No. 655,130.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRANK T. llanum'o- 'lON, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ilrousers- Patterns with Hem and Cutt' .llx'tcnsion; and I do hereby declare that the :t'ollowing is a full, clear, and exact description thereot, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the characters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates to an improved block pattern for trousers, and refers more especially to a graduated or scale extension at the bottom of the pattern to make allowance for different width hems or hems and cuffs at the trouser bottoms, and to insure accurate measurements of the cloth constituting the hems without the necessity of independent measurements and calculation on the part of the cutter.

The invention consists in the matters hereinafter set forth and more particularly pointed out in the appended claim.

In the drawings ;-Figure 1 is a plan view of the bottom portion of a backpart trousers pattern made in accordance with my invcntion. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the bottom of a forepart pattern.

As shown in said drawings 10 designates the backpart pattern and 11 the forepart pattern, the same being made of a nonshrinkable fiber or card board, preterably of some thickness to give suitable stability thereto. With respect to the means for making the allowance for the hems and cuffs, both the backpa-rt and the forepart patterns are alike, and a description of one applies equally to the other.

Heretofore, in cutting trousers having variable or irregular hems or hems and ends from block patterns, it has been the custom for the cutter to make the proper allowance 0n the cloth for the hems and cuffs, as well as allowance for shrinkage, beyond the bottom end of the pattern either by measuring the cloth beyond the pattern, or by the cutter relying on his skill to estimate the amount of cloth required for the hem and cuff extension and shrinkage allowance. Considerable time is involved in accurately measuring the cloth to make the allowance for the hems and cuffs, and such allowances are in practice largely estimated, especially in the rush work of cutters employed in shops known. as tailors to the trade, where the garnmnls are made in the shop from measurements sent in by agents 'i'rom the territory which the shop supplies.

It is the purpose of my invention to provide an extension pattern for hems or hems and culls at the bottom of and integral with the ordinary block patterns, and graduated in inches and Fractions thereof to correspond with the width of the hems or hems and cull's desired on the trousers bottom. In cutting the garment, this extension pat tern is laid over the cloth to extend beyond the line where the regular bottom ends, and the hem and cull extensions are marked on the cloth according to the measurements noted in the order which the cutter has beliore him. The lines or grmluations on the extension pattern appear on the cloth exactly where the cloth is to he cut for a given sized hem or hem and cu'tl so that the cutter, knowing the width of: the hem or hem and cutl' called for by the order, is required only to mark the cloth in line with the graduations or scale lines of the pattern which designate such widths. In other words the width oi the hem or hem and cull' is accurately indicated, and no iudcpcmlcnt measurements are required to be made by the cutter.

As shown in the drawings 12 designates the extension pattern referred to. It is divided by cross or scale lines into two general parts or sections, to wit, the part l-il: by which to make allowance for the hem and the part 15 by which to make allowance for the cult. The hem allowance section of the pattern is further divided into sub-sections 16, 16 to provide allowance for different width hems, and the cuii allowance section of the pattern is also divided into subsections 17, 17 to provide allowance for different width of CllIiYS. The line 18 is to designate the length of the actual inseam of the trousers leg, or the bottom line of the trousers leg about which the hem is turned inwardly, or at which the cloth is turned outwardly to term the cufl'. The wide space between the line 18 and the regular hem line 19 indicates the width required to produce the regular hem. There are formed on the side margins of the extension pattern, at the ends of the scale lines which divide the said extension patterns into sections and subsections notches 9.0 into which the marking chalk may be insorted when the cutter marks the cloth, so as to accurately mark the cloth at the line on the pattern to allow for the goods for the hem or cutt as called for by the order.

In the use of the pattern with the hem and cuff extension, the pattern is laid on the goods in the usual manner and the cloth is marked off for cutting the main part of the trousers leg in the usual way. It allowance be made for the regular hem only, the cloth at the trousers bottom will be marked for cutting on the line 19, and the hem portion of the cloth so cut is turned up inside the trousers leg about the line 18. If a wider hem is called for, the cloth is marked for cutting at one of the scale lines on the part 1% below; the line 19. In like manner allowance for different widths of cuffs may be made by marking the cloth at the lines of he extension cufi' pattern which separate the subsections 17. It will be noted that the subsections 17 for the cull extension pattern are made of substantially twice the width of the smaller subsections 16 of the extension hem pattern in order to allow for the double thickness of the goods which is turned up on the outside of the trousers leg to produce the cuff, the width of the cloth required for the hem extension being approximately half that required for the cuff extension. The graduations of the extension pattern will be figured to allow for shrinkage.

Among the advantages of my pattern with the hem and cult extension is that the allowance for the hem and cuff is made without separate calculation, thus saving the cutters time in figuring out the proper allowance in inches of cloth, as well as for shrinkage of the goods on the different width hems and cuffs. The extension pattern also eitects a considerable saving in time in making the hem and cult allowance and also insures against errors of cutters in making such allowance. Furthermore, inasmuch as all allowances for the ditlerent extensions are. 011 the pattern, and before the cutter, the cutter is not liable to cut the trousers with out consulting the order blank, and is not therefore liable to overlook a special Width hem or a special widthcufli.

The extension pattern 12 is formed with parallel side margins to give a square efiect thereto, and the side margins of the portion of the block pattern immediately above the line 18, indicating the length of the actual inseam, is likewise furnished with parallel side margins and of the same width as the extension pattern, the parallel lines of the bottom of the main pattern meeting the diverging side margins thereof at the points 22. Said points 22 are located a distance above the actual inseam line 18 equal to the width of the cloth turned up above the line 18 to form the hem. When the hem is made wider than the regular hem, allowance may be made on the cloth to increase the straight or squared margins of the main pattern bot.- tom. This arrangement of the pattern bot tom insures that the goods, cut by the pattern, which are turned upwardly upon the trousers bottom, will accuratelymatch the trousers bottom above the actual inseam, so that there will be no occasion to alter the trousers to square the hem and cuff extensions to the bottom of the trousers leg after the trousers are partly finished.

I claim as my invention A non-shrinkable pattern of fiber board or the like for trousers provided with a transverse line indicating the actual inseam of the trousers leg, and beyond said line with an integral hem and cult extension pattern having parallel side margins, said extension pattern being provided with spaced,

transverse scale lines to indicate the proper allowance of goods for diiierent width hems and ends.

In testimony, that I claim the foregoing my invention I aiiix my signature in the presence of two witnesses, this 13th day of October, A. D. 1911.

FRANK T. HARRINGTON.

Witnesses V. L. HALL, G. E. DOWLE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G. 

